“The man is pictured standing in the water holding the board behind him and wearing a traditional loin cloth.
“Surfing had been largely stamped out by missionaries who arrived in Hawaii after Captain Cook discovered it.
“They thought it ungodly, but it survived and this photograph shows the traditional way they surfed.”
- Chris Albury, Dominic Winter auctions near Cirencester, Gloucs
…..
Thank you to Robin Chua and the Daily Mail
